Consider the Bathroom Accessories when Remodeling your Bathroom

By Mark J. Donovan

If you are starting a new bathroom remodeling project make sure you consider the bathroom accessories ,as well as the Jacuzzi tub, and new vanity and countertop.

Key bathroom accessories to consider include:

• Bathroom Flooring
• Bathroom Towel Racks
• Toilet Paper Racks
• Curtains
• Shades / Window Treatment
• Bathroom Lighting
• Paint Color schemes

All of these bathroom accessories can make or break your new bathroom remodeling project. Investigate all of your options in these categories before starting your bathroom remodeling project.

To learn more about bathroom accessories see: Bathroom Accessories.

Butyl Caulk

By Mark J. Donovan

Butyl caulk is the perfect caulk for exterior home applications. It is frequently used for concrete block, concrete, stone, and brick applications. It is also adheres well on aluminum siding, fireplaces and flashing.

Butyl caulk is difficult to work with and it is extremely messy. Conseqeuntly it is difficult to clean up, and will require paint thinner to remove it off of unwanted surfaces. It is also has a long curing time and a high shrinkage factor. It typically has a lifespan of 8-10 years and is available in many colors. It can support applicaitons with gaps up to ¼ inch.

To learn more about caulk alternatives see Types of Caulk.

Silicone Caulk

By Mark J. Donovan

Silicone caulk is a highly flexible caulk that has excellet adhesion. However it requires the surface to be extremely clean and it will not adhere to old silicone caulk.

Silicone caulk is ideal for wet applications, such as in shower enclosures or bathtubs. It is does not paint well.

It can fill gaps up to 1/4 inch in diameter and aheres well to almost any surface.

Silicone caulk is difficult to remove after it has dried. It is extremely difficult to get off of your hands. When applying silicone caulk, follow up quickly with wet paper towels to remove excess material.

To learn more about caulk alternatives see Types of Caulk.

Silicone caulk is warrantied to last 10-35 years, depending upon the manufacturer.

Acrylic Latex Caulk Benefits and Applications

By Mark J. Donovan

Acrylic latex caulk is used for many interior and exterior home applications.

Acrylic latex caulk is an extremely popular choice amongst homeowners. It is freqently used for caulking wood trim and other dry interior applicaitons. It is also used on exterior applications including around doors and windows. It also adheres well to aluminum siding. It typically lasts 10-15 years. Acrylic latex caulk is latex based so it is easy to clean up and is paintable.

To learn more about caulk alternatives see Types of Caulk.

How to Get a Home Construction Loan

By Mark J. Donovan

To obtain a home construction loan you will need to provide a complete construction package to the lending institution. The complete construction package consists of detailed engineering drawings, a build schedule, a material list, material and labor costs, contractor names, and an expected schedule of payments.

Usually you need to own the building lot outright in order to obtain a home construction loan. Also, often banks hesitate in providing construction loans to homeowners, without the involvement of a licensed general contractor.

A home construction loan can frequently be converted into conventional mortgage loan after the home has completed construction. Make sure you check with the lending institution on this option before deciding upon them. You could save yourself thousands of dollars in closing costs and interest rate payments.

To learn more about home Construction loans and how they work see: New Home Construction Loans.

For more help on building a new custom home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's New Home Construction Bid Sheet. The New Home Construction Bid Sheet provides you with the knowledge on how to plan a custom home building project, and what to look for when hiring contractors for your new home construction. It also includes a detailed cost breakdown table and spreadsheet for estimating your own new home construction building costs.

Architect Services and House Plans

By Mark J. Donovan

When in need of house plans, homeowners frequently think of an architect and then go out and buy a house plan magazine instead.

If you are in the process of looking for house plans to build a new home, you should not be so quick to dismiss the use of an architect and their services.

An architect provides more than a set of house plans and drawings. An architect transforms your dream home concepts into a home design that meets all building code requirements and your dreams.

Architect services include much more than providing house plans or drawings, and blueprints.

• They initially meet with you to understand your home ideas and goals.
• They develop initial concept sketches for your review and approval.
• They perform site and environmental inspections.
• They review all local building codes.
• They develop detailed engineering house plan drawings and Bills of Materials.
• They can specify every single finish piece of material in the home.

In the end they deliver to you a full set of construction plans for you to go out and request contractor bids.

Architect services can also include support during the bidding process and home construction. They can make sure you hire the right contractor for your project. They can also ensure that the actual construction of the home meets the construction plans and all code requirements.

So again, if you are thinking a new custom home project, talk to a couple of architects before running out and buying an off-the-shelf house plan from your local bookstore. You may be surprised in what they can offer.

To learn more see: Architecture Design Service Process

Light Dimmer Switch Installation

By Mark J. Donovan

A light dimmer switch is a must have if you’ve just installed a home theatre in your family room. A light dimmer switch is also a great way to add ambiance to you dinning room.

Light Dimmer Switch installation is fairly easy for a homeowner to do. All that is required are some needle nose pliers, a couple of screw drivers, wire strippers, a volt meter or neon light tester, and about 1 hour of your time.

Step 1: Turn of power to the switch at the electrical panel.

Step 2: Check that power is indeed of at the switch. Toggle the switch to make sure the light is off.

Step 3: Remove the faceplate cover.

Step 4: Using your voltmeter or neon tester, probe the light switch terminals to see if the light switch is truly powered off.

Step 5: Disconnect the electrical wires from the switch and straighten them with you pliers.

Step 6: If installing a new light dimmer switch with only two black wires, install the new light dimmer switch by connecting the two black wires on the dimmer switch to the wires coming out of the electrical box. Note that there is no polarity with a 2 black wire type light dimmer switch, so it doesn’t matter which black dimmer wire attaches to which light switch wire.

Step 7: Twist each pair of wires together and attach a wire nut over each pair.

Step 8: If the light dimmer switch has a green wire (ground wire), connect this wire to the ground wire in the electrical box.

Step 9: If installing a light dimmer switch that has black and red wires, connect the black wire to the power (Line) and the red wire to the (Load).

Step10: To determine which is the Line and which is the Load, pull out both switch wires from the box and separate them. Also pull out the ground wire if the light switch is installed in a plastic electrical box.

Warning: Be careful that you separate the wires from each other first. Have someone turn on the circuit breaker to the light dimmer switch. Use a voltmeter or neon tester to see which wire is the Load and which one is the Line. The wire that causes the Voltmeter to deflect, or the neon tester to light, is the Line wire. Be careful not to touch the bare wires with your body.

If the electrical box is metal, probe one switch wire and the metal box, and look for a deflection on the voltmeter, or the neon tester to glow. Again, if you do see a deflection or if the neon tester glows, then this is the Line wire.

Now that you know which is the Line wire, have someone turn off the circuit breaker before proceeding to connect the light dimmer switch wires to the Line and Load wires.

Step 11: Connect the wires by twisting each pair together and installing a wire nut over them.

Step 12: Push the newly wired light dimmer switch into the electrical box and secure it with the two mounting screws.

Step 13: Install the light dimmer switch faceplate cover.

With the light dimmer switch installation complete, turn the power back on to your new light dimmer switch and test it.

For information on Changing a Light Switch, See HomeAdditionPlus.com's "How to Change a Light Switch Ebook". It provides detailed, easy to understand, step-by-step instructions and pictures, on how to replace a Light Switch.

DECRA Metal Roofing Shingles

By Mark J. Donovan

DECRA’s metal roofing shingles, look like traditional asphalt shingles when installed. The metal shingles are sold in bundles and squares. Each metal shingle is 21” x 52” in width and height and is stone-coated in one of five color variations.

DECRA’s stone-coated metal shingles are much less sensitive to damage. You can walk on them without concern for denting. They are also guaranteed to not be damaged by hail due to their unique construction.

DECRA’s metal shingles weigh approximately one third of standard asphalt shingles. They are extremely light which enables them to frequently be installed over existing asphalt shingle layer(s). As a result, the labor cost savings associated with installing metal shingles can somewhat mitigate their high unit cost.

DECRA metal shingles are installed similarly to regular asphalt shingles, however they include an interlocking mechanism between the top of one course of shingles and the bottom of another. This interlocking mechanism helps to enable DECRA to provide a 120MPH wind warranty with its metal shingles.

To learn more on metal roofing installation and technology see Metal Roofing Installation.

Metal Roof System Advantages and Disadvantages

By Mark J. Donovan

Traditional Metal roof systems have both advantages and disadvantages.

Metal Roof System Advantages

• Frequently offer longer warranties than asphalt shingles
• Fire retardant
• They are light weight and thus installation is easier
• They are resistant to rot and insect damage
• They help to reduce attic heat by reflecting the sun’s radiant heat

Metal Roof System Disadvantages

• Traditional metal roof systems are notoriously expensive
• They are prone to denting and marring
• They are difficult to patch or repair
• They can be noisy
• They are difficult to walk on due to slipping and denting concerns

This said there are advancements in metal roof systems. New products on the market have stone-coated surfaces that provide for the look of a traditional asphalt shingle.

To learn more on roofing and shingling see: More on Roofing

Pros and Cons of Concrete block and Poured Concrete Foundation Walls

By Mark J. Donovan

Pros of Concrete Block Foundation Walls

• Concrete blocks are large and thus construction of foundation walls can occur quicker than one might initially think.
• Homeowners can frequently build their own foundation walls when using concrete blocks.
• Concrete block foundation walls have high insulation factors if filled with concrete, as they should be.

Cons of Concrete Block Foundation Walls

• Concrete block walls can look ugly.
• The outside surface of concrete block foundation walls need to be parged to improve the outside appearance.
• Concrete blocks are heavy, so some muscle is required if planning to construct your own concrete block foundation walls.
• Concrete block walls should be filled with concrete and rebar for structural strength and insulation reasons.

Pros of Poured Concrete Foundation Walls

• Poured foundation walls can be completed quickly, in as little as just a couple of days.
• Labor costs are typically lower than hiring a team of labors to assemble concrete blocks.
• Poured concrete foundations can frequently be stronger than concrete block walls due to the ability to specify the foundation wall thickness.
• Poured foundation walls are typically drier as there are no seams for water to leak through.

Cons of Poured Concrete Foundation Walls

• Poured foundation walls usually can not be performed by a homeowners.

To learn more about the advantages and disadvantages of see: Concrete blocks versus Poured concrete foundation walls.

Protect Your Home with Outdoor Security Lighting

By Mark J. Donovan

One of the best ways to keep thieves, burglars, and pranksters away from your home at night is to install outdoor security lights. Outdoor security lighting statistics have shown that a well outdoor lighted home is an excellent deterrent to home invasions and burglaries.

There are many outdoor security lighting options to choose from. There are halogen lights, High Intensity Discharge (HID) lights, and incandescent lights to name a few.

Outdoor security lights work best when mounted in an elevated position and directed downwards. They should also be located in a shield position. Positioning of outdoor security lights in this manner will enable homeowners within the home to identify and describe would be burglars and pranksters to the police.

Outdoor security lighting can be controlled via timers and motion sensors.

Wrap Electrical Connections in Electrician’s Tape when Fixing a Light Switch or Socket

By Mark J. Donovan

When fixing a light switch or socket and using wire nuts use electrician’s tape to ensure the wire nut does not come loose. Frequently the bare wires that are twisted and connected via a wire nut are still somewhat exposed. By wrapping electric tape around the wire nut, such that it extends down the sides of it and around a portion of the wire, you can prevent the remote possibility of a short circuit.

In addition, it is also a good idea to wrap the entire light switch or socket with a couple wraps of electrician tapes to insulate the switch or socket screws. Again, this will help prevent the remote possibility of a short in the event the metal screws associated with the electrical box come in contact with it.

For more information on Changing a Light Switch, See HomeAdditionPlus.com's "How to Change a Light Switch Ebook". It provides detailed, easy to understand, step-by-step instructions and pictures, on how to replace a Light Switch.

Use of Pressure Treated Lumber in Home Construction

By Mark J. Donovan

For years pressure treated lumber has been used in building decks and other outside home construction projects. It has also been used in some interior / enclosed framing applications, particularly as sill plates between concrete foundations and floor joists.

However, on January 1, 2004, the EPA banned the use of CCA (Chromated Copper Arsenate) pressure treated lumber in home construction. The lumber industry responded to this ban by introducing new pressure treated wood products that are based on a copper preservative treatment. The new chemical treatment, known as Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ), is said to be less harmful to the environment however care is still needed in working with it. In addition, because of the high copper content, galvanized or stainless steel fasteners are required to fasten this new type of pressure treated lumber.

The American Wood-Preservers Association (AWPA) has also approved certain types of pressure treated lumber for interior framing applications. However, for enclosed structural framing applications, the pressure treated lumber needs to be dried to a moisture level of no more than 19% before enclosing the building.

To be safe, check with your own local building inspector before deciding to use pressure treated lumber on your home construction project.

For more help on building a new custom home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's New Home Construction Bid Sheet. The New Home Construction Bid Sheet provides you with the knowledge on how to plan a custom home building project, and what to look for when hiring contractors for your new home construction. It also includes a detailed cost breakdown table and spreadsheet for estimating your own new home construction building costs.

Roof Trusses offer Advantages in Home Construction

By Mark J. Donovan

When building a new home, you should consider the use of roof trusses. Roof trusses save money and time and make the most efficient use of wood lumber.

Roof trusses save time and money in construction and enable builders to develop complex rooflines, which are a trend in modern home design.

Roof trusses save money due to the fact that they are easy and quick to install, are relatively lightweight, and require no field cutting. They also have consistent quality as they are fabricated in a factory rather than on a job site.

To learn more about the advantages of roof trusses see HomeAdditionPlus.com's article on Roof Trusses.

Custom Home Design For Seniors

By Mark J. Donovan

When developing a custom home design for seniors or empty nesters the following items should be considered.

• Single Story Home or Master Bedroom on first floor
• Wider Stairways with no-slip treads, that can support a seat elevator
• Use of Door handles vs Door Knobs
• Lower Kitchen Countertops
• Kitchen shelves that slide open
• Kitchen Countertops with large overhangs for wheelchair accessibility
• Wider hallways and door openings for wheel chairs
• Bathroom tubs/showers with seats/benches installed
• Flexible shower hoses and nozzles
• No-slip bathtub/shower units
• Bathroom closet vs under sink cabinet storage space
• Lighting – Hallway lighting controlled by one switch or sound
• Hobby Rooms (Music, Painting, Sewing, Model building, etc.)

Your senior years should be a fun and enjoyable time. With a little planning your new custom home should enable you to have the independence and high quality of life you deserve in your retirement years.

To learn more see the full article on Custom Home Building for Seniors.

I’m Buying a Portable Electric Generator for the Home

By Mark J. Donovan

Today I decided that it is finally time to buy a portable electric generator for the home. I have been putting off buying a portable electric generator for years, but no longer. After spending the past 24 hours in a frigid home due to an ice storm and a subsequent loss of electricity, I told myself today – No More.

As the sun was setting and I was contemplating how I was going to keep my plumbing pipes from freezing this evening the electricity finally came back on. However, only after the freezer defrosted and several trips to the creek to fill buckets of water to flush toilets.

Next week, when Home Depot has replenished its portable electric generator supplies, I’ll be there, credit card in hand. Unlike 5 years ago, this time I mean it!

Finished Basements - A Popular Home Improvement Trend

By Mark J. Donovan

Finished Basements offer a Variety of Additional Living Space Options

Increasingly future homeowners and existing homeowners alike are looking to own homes with finished basements or finished lower levels. Finished basements can offer significant increases in a home’s living space by providing large private spaces for recreation rooms, gyms, entertainment centers and game rooms.

Typically finished basements or lower level remodeling projects are less expensive than external home additions and present less of a hassle when obtaining permits. Also, with the trend in smaller lot sites for homes, finishing a basement or lower level may be the only choice a homeowner has in obtaining more living space within their home.

Finished Basement Costs

Costs for finishing a basement can vary widely depending on what your plans are for the space. However, for a rough order of magnitude estimate you can expect to pay around $20 - $25 per square foot in construction costs for a basic finished basement. For example, a 1000 square foot basic finished basement will cost you in the neighborhood of $25,000 for Framing, Electric, Insulation and Sheetrock. The cost can go dramatically higher if you have plans for bathrooms, wet-bars, wine cellars and/or home entertainment centers.

Ideal Building Lots for Finished Basements

Not every home or building lot is ideal for a finished basement or finished lower level. The best building lots for a finished lower level have gentle slopes or grades that allow a side of the finished basement to include windows and a walkout door. The natural light that this type of building lot affords can really add to the possibilities in a finished basement or lower level.

Basement Waterproofing / Sealing

Prior to starting a finished basement remodeling project you should carefully assess the basement foundation and floor for water and moisture problems. Every basement has high moisture levels, and as such, accommodations should be made for the installation of a permanent dehumidifier. Without the use of a dehumidifier even so-called dry finished basements will eventually show signs of mold and mildew.

In addition, you should waterproof your basement’s interior concrete walls and floors to help reduce the level of moisture that wicks its way through the concrete walls and floor, and into the basement living space. Also, if there are signs of water penetration via cracks and white stains on the floors and walls, you should seriously consider installing a basement waterproofing sealer on the outside of the foundation as well, prior to starting the basement remodeling project itself.

Basement Mechanical Access and Function

You also need to consider furnaces and other mechanical fixtures that are located in your basement. Frequently it is impossible, impractical or just too plain costly to move these items. Consequently you need to develop a solid floorplan for your finished basement that can work around these obstructions in the most efficient way while ensuring they can still perform their functions properly. For example, a furnace needs to intake air to burn fuel. As a result, you need to allow for ventilation to enable the furnace to burn fuel properly.

You also need to consider access to these mechanical systems, and even the eventual replacement of them. Access considerations should include not only boxed in service panels to turn on and off valves, but also even items such as door dimensions to enable the eventual removal and replacement of furnaces, oil tanks, water filter systems, etc.

Ceilings

Another major consideration when finishing a basement or lower level is the type of finished ceiling. The height of the floor joists above the floor, and/or the number and location of pipes can sometimes dictate your choice. Though more difficult to do, a sheetrocked ceiling gives a more finished look to a basement. However, a dropped ceiling does offer easy access and simplicity in framing and construction. Again, proper planning is necessary to determine how best to install either a sheetrocked ceiling or a dropped ceiling. If a sheetrock ceiling is preferred, duct work needs to be box framed in and service panels need to be accounted for to obtain access to upper level bathtub J-traps, plumbing valves and other mechanical service panels.

Though a finished basement project has its issues and requires careful planning, today’s housing market trends suggests that finished basements are highly sought after. Consequently, if done right, a finished basement or lower level space is a great investment and can be a real asset to your home’s long term equity.

For more help on Finishing Basements, see HomeAdditionPlus.com's Basement Remodeling Bid sheet. The Basement Remodeling Bid Sheet will help ensure that your hire the right contractor so that your basement remodeling project is done correctly and you get the project finished on time and budget.

Housewraps - Weather Protection Systems for Home Construction

By Mark J. Donovan

Insist on the Installation of Housewrap when Building a Custom Home

When building a custom home it is important that the home be wrapped in a weather resistant barrier (a.k.a housewrap), prior to the installation of the exterior siding, to prevent water damage and air infiltration.

Housewrap, such as Tyvek and Typar, can easily be applied to a home’s exterior sheathing with staples and a staple gun, and thus should always be installed. Housewrap plays a critical role in the protection of your home against water damage. Housewrap prevents water or moisture, which may have found its way through your home’s siding, from penetrating further into your home’s exterior sheathing. If water were to come in contact with your exterior sheathing, and allowed to accumulate, your home would become susceptible to rot and decay, insects, and mold and mildew damage.

Housewrap also works as a windbreaker by preventing air infiltration. Housewrap covers framing and exterior sheathing seams to prevent the penetration of wind and cold air.

Housewrap should be installed before the doors and windows have been installed. The housewrap should wrap completely around the door and window openings and should be tacked in on the inside of the door and window frames for maximum protection against leaks. All housewrap seams should be taped for maximum protection.

So when building your custom home, insist on the installation of housewrap. It will ensure that your home is energy efficient, protected from the elements, and warm and comfortable to your family.

Wet Subfloor during Construction of Home

By Mark J. Donovan

Should I be concerned if the Subfloor gets wet during Construction?

Question: I am in the process of having a custom home built and I am concerned over the fact that the subfloor is getting wet. The subfloor is made out of 3/4th inch tongue and groove plywood and the walls are up, however the roof has yet to be installed. Should I be concerned that the subfloor is getting wet? Could the constant exposure to rain and snow damage the subfloor?

Answer: Every new home construction project is going to be exposed to the elements for some period of time, and frequently the subfloors do get wet from rain and snow. Most of the time, however, a little rain and snow will not damage the subfloor. If at all possible, you should ensure that the subfloor is at least swept off after a rain or snow storm to help prevent damage to the subfloor. You may even want to use a wet-vac to remove as much of the water as possible.

If after the subfloor dries you see signs of delamination, swelling, warps or bulges, or if the subfloor feels punky, you should replace the damaged sections. If not replaced you may experience uneven finished floors. Carpet and especially ceramic tile can not be installed on non-solid surfaces.

Note that there are subflooring products on the market today, such as from Advantech, that are water resistant. As a matter of fact, Advantech offers a 50 year warranty on its subflooring products. You may want to discuss this product with your builder prior to the construction of your home.

Custom Home Building Process

By Mark J. Donovan

The Key Steps in Successfully Building a Custom Home

Having a custom home built is only a wistful dream for many homeowners. In reality, however, to build a custom home with all the amenities and features specified by you, is not as far out of reach as one might think.

Custom home building requires two basic things; money and your personal time. Though custom home building is expensive, costs can somewhat be mitigated, or at least controlled as you specify exactly what features are in the custom home, e.g. lot costs, house size, construction material, and amenities. Through the help of an architect and builder you should be able to fairly accurately estimate you building costs.

The other major investment when building a custom home is your time. You are required to select the lot, as well as every feature and aspect of the home. This requires a great deal of traveling to survey potential sites for your home and to visit various home stores for selecting doors, windows, shingles, lighting, tub/showers, kitchen appliances, flooring, etc. Consequently before embarking on building a custom home, make sure you have the time to support the effort. Only through your dedication in the building process will you actually obtain the custom home you’ve dreamed about.

Use of an Architect

Before starting any custom home building project it is wise to work with an architect. An architect will be able to convert your custom home ideas into a real plan that will meet local and state engineering requirements. They will also be able to give you advice on land selection and what type of lot best suites the home style you prefer.

Even if you already have a set of pre-purchased plans it is advisable to employ an architect, as you will inevitably have changes. In addition, not all home plans meet every local/state building requirement.

Selection of the Custom Home Building Lot

The selection of the building lot plays a major role in the cost of you custom home building project. If the lot requires its own septic system, well, and electric and phone utilities to be installed you will need to account for these costs in the project. In addition a great deal of time is usually required to develop and obtain septic design and obtain local and state approvals. Furthermore you will need to schedule and manage the timelines for electric and phone utilities to be installed which could delay the start of you project.

This said if you can find a building lot that already has an approved septic design or is on municipal services you may be wise to take it. In addition if electric/phone lines already pass by the home you will save yourself significant time and costs. Building lots, however with these amenities and services already available to them do command premium prices. You will need to carefully analyze what makes the most financial and scheduling sense for your custom home building project. Also, do not hesitate to negotiate with a real estate agent on a building lot that meets your needs.

In addition to the lot costs and utility concerns, you will also need to determine if the lot meets your needs from the perspective of the specific home you want to build. You and your architect need to look at the topographical maps of the property to see if the grades and soil quality meet your home’s specific needs. You will also need to consider wetlands, setbacks and easements on it that may impact your ability to build the custom home.

Before actually purchasing the building lot, visit the local town/city/county hall and make sure you have confirmed all the property specifics including who is the rightful owner, the tax records, zoning laws for the location of the lot, and the last sale price. Make sure there are no liens or encumbrances on it as this will add to your cost of construction and potentially turn a custom home building project into a nightmare.

Financing a Custom Home Building Project

There are many financing options available to you so you will need to visit a few banks to understand the options that make the best sense for you. There are fixed rate mortgages, adjustable rate mortgages, and even construction mortgages that convert to conventional mortgages after the home has been completed. If you are working with a real estate agent they may be able to point you to the appropriate lending institutions for your specific needs.

Depending on your specific lending needs you can expect to pay $1500 to $7000 for just the cost of the loan. These costs may even be higher depending on how big of a custom home you have in mind. Again the loan costs need to be part of the budgeting process.

To obtain a construction mortgage you will need the project fully specified and priced out. This includes the listing of all major aspects of the project: site preparation, permits, architect, foundation, framing, roofing, material costs, electric, plumbing, insulation, drywall, cabinetry, appliances, painting, and interior work. If a septic design is required state approved plans will also need to be presented. And if utilities need to be installed or moved you will need to show the cost and locations of them as well.

Typically banks will look for the land as collateral. As a result, banks will usually not finance a custom home building project unless you own the land outright. If you are working with a custom home builder, you may be able to have him purchase the land on your behalf and have him include the costs of the land in the construction loan. Again, you will need to explore these opportunities with the bank and your builder to see what works best. Usually if there is a will there is a way.

Square Footage Costs of Custom Home Building

The cost per square foot for custom home building construction costs vary widely. It depends on your location, market conditions, material and labor costs, and the construction materials. You can expect to pay anywhere from $100 to $200 per square foot for a moderate custom home building project. This typically does not include the cost of the land, loan fees, engineering and site work.

Final Thoughts

The key elements to a successful custom home building project are planning, your active participation, patience and money. The first three items are as important as the money aspect.

Without a proper plan a custom home building project will be unsuccessful. The plan needs to spell out every aspect of the project, including contingencies for schedule slips and cost overruns.

Your active and everyday involvement is critical in making the project meet the dreams and requirements you initially envisioned. This means you need to be prepared for many phone calls, site visits, and product decisions. None of these items can be ignored or left for chance if you really want the home of your dreams.

Finally, a custom home building project requires patience. Working with many people, which is the case in a custom home building project, involves dealing with many types of personalities with their own specific needs and schedules. Expect disagreements; anticipate contractors to be late sometimes, and expect things not always to go as planned. Add these issues to the contingency list where you have already thought ahead on how to deal with these situations when they arise.

Building a custom home can be a reality for you if you are willing to put the effort in. For most of those that have gone before you in such an endeavor the experience has been a positive one that they would be willing to repeat.

For more help on building a new custom home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com’s New Home Construction Bid Sheet. The New Home Construction bid Sheet provides you with the knowledge on how to plan a custom home building project, and what to look for when hiring contractors for your new home construction. It also includes a detailed cost breakdown table and spreadsheet for estimating your own new home construction building costs.

Why Build a Custom Home or Semi Custom Home?

By Mark J. Donovan

So why build a custom home? The answer is simple – to have the home that best fulfills you personal requirements and desires. Most homes today are built using standard grade products that minimize costs and maximize profits for home builders and real estate agents.

Frequently the new homeowner gets inferior quality products installed in the home, such as appliances and cabinets. Even if you sign a purchase and sales agreement on a to-be-built new home in a new development you frequently are limited in house styles and features.

Choosing to build a fully custom home, on the other hand, allows you the total freedom to decide on features such as the building lot, style of home, the floor plan, types of flooring and cabinets, lighting and a myriad of other options. Virtually every aspect of the home design is for you to decide on.

There is a price however for building a fully custom home. Unique features and products are not sold at bulk rate prices at box home improvement stores. Consequently you could expect to spend 2 to 3 times more per square foot on construction costs when building a fully custom home.

A semi custom home, alternatively, is a compromise between purchasing a spec home and building a fully custom home. As a result, building a semi custom home provides you with the ability to select some of your home’s features, while not breaking your banking account.

When building a semi custom home, the builder usually presents you with several house styles and floor plans to choose from. In addition, you are usually allowed to select flooring, cabinets, appliances, lighting fixtures and lighting locations. Frequently the flexibility is offered via “budget allowances”. For example a builder may offer you a $2000 kitchen appliance allowance where you choose what kitchen appliances you want installed in the home. If you decide to purchase appliances in excess of the allowance then you pay the additional costs out of your pocket.

In addition, when building a semi custom home you will frequently have the opportunity to select various building options such as attached garages, family rooms, unfinished rooms and even deck sizes.

Deciding to build a custom home is not for the faint of heart. Even if you have selected a great architect and builder you will be required to do a lot of work and make a lot of choices. Expect to spend many a day at kitchen and bath centers, flooring stores, lighting stores, etc. You will need to make decisions on many aspects of you custom home that you would not otherwise have a chance to do if purchasing a spec home. However, for most homeowners choosing the path of building a custom home is a positive experience. Everyday they live in the custom home they get to appreciate the choices that they made during the building of their home.

For more help on building a new custom home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com’s New Home Construction Bid Sheet. The New Home Construction bid Sheet provides you with the knowledge on how to plan a custom home building project, and what to look for when hiring contractors for your new home construction. It also includes a detailed cost breakdown table and spreadsheet for estimating your own new home construction building costs.

Custom Home Design Floor Plan Considerations

By Mark J. Donovan

When developing a custom home design floor plan there are a number of features you should consider to ensure you maximize the benefits of your new custom home. Several key areas to consider are:

• Open Concept
• Ceiling heights
• Traffic patterns
• Recreation rooms
• Lines of site
• Exterior Views

Open Concept

One of the most important aspects today of a good custom home design floor plan is large open space. Gone are the days of long, narrow, boring hallways interconnecting rooms. They waste space, block interior and exterior views, and reduce an otherwise large custom home into a number of small rooms.

A good custom home design floor plan maximizes the custom home’s square footage, while still creating a sense of separate spaces. Key to this is creating small transition walls with large entranceways between rooms. For example, today kitchen and family room floor plan designs are frequently connected to each other via minor edge transitional walls or step-downs from one room to the other.

Ceiling Heights

Vaulted ceilings and taller ceilings are another trend in creating the Open Concept custom home design floor plan. It is not uncommon to see great rooms in new custom homes with ceiling heights approaching 20 feet. Frequently kitchens, dining rooms and even bedrooms in new custom homes have ceiling heights of 9 to 10 feet.

Traffic Flow Pattern

Another extremely important aspect of a good custom home design floor plan is the expected traffic flow pattern within the home. This is particularly critical in a large open concept custom home.

In large single story custom homes the bedrooms are commonly located off of a large family room or bonus room. The family room also frequently connects to the kitchen. Care in the custom home floor plan has to be made so that people are not crisscrossing the family room to get from a bedroom to the kitchen. Bedroom doors should be lined up so that people exit into the family room in a space that is similar to a hallway but without the walls. This walking space shouldn’t cut across the line of site between sofas and the entertainment center.

The location of stairways is another extremely important consideration in assessing traffic flow patterns. You may want to prevent stairways from entering into particular rooms or major entranceways pending your privacy concerns.

Large Recreation Rooms

With the proliferation of home technology and home theaters it is increasingly becoming necessary to have larger recreation rooms in custom home floor plan designs. Care in the recreation room floor plan has to be given to identify where the television screen will reside or what wall the flat panel screen will secure to. In addition, the identification of speaker hookups and home theater hardware/electronics also has to be properly identified.

Consideration of a wet bar also needs to be made. If the recreation room will not be attached to the kitchen does it make sense to have a wet bar in it? This too is a traffic pattern consideration.

Line of Sight

As already mentioned open concept is becoming an increasing theme in new custom home floor plan designs. Part of the reason for this is that it helps to open up lines of sites between rooms and the outside. It is critical when looking at a set of custom home design plans to check that walls and doors do not block lines of site. If they do, the house will feel smaller due to all of the visual obstructions.

You can check the floor plans for lines of site issues by using a pencil and ruler. Locating yourself in doorways and expected sofa and chair locations, use the ruler and pencil to draw straight lines in the directions you prefer to see in the distance. The distant views could be in or out of the home. If in doing this exercise you run into walls or doors, consider modifying the floor plans.

Exterior Views and Sunlight

The location of the house footprint and the floor plan of the custom home can make or break your ability to maximize the outdoor views and sunlight from the interior of your home. Care should be given on the positioning of the home’s footprint. If you want certain rooms to be bright in the afternoon, then you may want to position the home so that these rooms receive south and west exposures. If you want the kitchen, on the other hand, to be bright in the morning you may want to position the home, or the location of the kitchen, so that it has an easterly view.

If your custom home’s property has views of mountains or lakes, you will want to ensure that the floor plan takes advantage of these views by including picture style windows in strategic places. The windows should be positioned so that as many lines of sites as possible can see out of them. One large window need not be your only alternative. A number of smaller windows configured together can create the same visual affect as one larger one, but in addition, add a level of unique customization to your home.

Rarely does a homeowner get more than one chance in their lifetime to have a custom home built. Take the time necessary to review your custom home floor plans prior to starting construction. Do not hesitate talking with, and suggesting changes, to your architect to get the finished custom home floor plan you want. In the end, it will be you who will be living in the home and not the contractors and architect.

For more help on building a new custom home, see HomeAdditionPlus.com’s New Home Construction Bid Sheet. The New Home Construction bid Sheet provides you with the knowledge on how to plan a custom home building project, and what to look for when hiring contractors for your new home construction. It also includes a detailed cost breakdown table and spreadsheet for estimating your own new home construction building costs.

Composite Decking Material Choices

By Mark J. Donovan

Review of Trex, TimberTech, ChoiceDek and Smart Deck Composite Decking Materials

There are a number of composite decking material choices to choose from when designing your new deck. Composite decking materials are increasing in popularity due to their low maintenance, durability and longevity. They are also designed with traditional wood surface textures.

The Pros

Composite decking materials are environmentally friendly. Composite decking materials are constructed using wood fibers and recycled plastic. In some composite decking materials the percentage of recycled plastic used in their construction approaches 50%.

Due to the fact that composite decking still contains at least 50% wood fiber it can be stained for your specific deck color requirements. In addition, the wood fibers help to minimize slippery deck surfaces.

Composite decking material is extremely durable and requires zero maintenance. They are highly resistant to ultraviolet rays, rot and insects. Composite decking material suppliers like Trex and TimberTech offer warranties up to 25 years on their products against splitting, splintering, cracking, rot, insect damage or material defects in workmanship and materials. ChoiceDek, SmartDeck and other composite decking material suppliers offer similar warranties up to 10 to 20 years in length.

The Cons

There are however a few disadvantages of composite decking material. Some composite decking material can have a shiny, plastic look, and the dyes imbedded in them can also fade a little over time. There have been continued advancements in these product offerings however in recent years to somewhat mitigate these issues.

Also some composite decking materials require narrower joist center spacings than the traditional 16 inch center spacing. This can add a little to you deck construction costs. In addition, more attention needs to be paid to the clean up phase of a deck project when using composite decking as the plastic material is non biodegradable.

Availability of Product

Trex, TimberTech, ChoiceDek all produce standard stock/size decking material, similar to what you would find in all wood decking products. Standard 5/4 x 6” and 2”x6”stock are manufactured by all vendors. Other vendors offer 1.5”x6” stock sizes.

Board stock is usually offered in either plain deck board styles or in tongue and grooved styles, depending on the manufacturer.

Costs of Composite Decking Material

Typically Composite Decking material costs between $3-4 per square foot. Installed you could expect to pay $18-$25 per square foot.

How to Repair a Leaky Faucet

By Mark J. Donovan

Most homeowners can repair a leaky faucet on their own. The basic tools required for repairing a leaky faucet include a Philips screwdriver, a small common screwdriver, common pliers, needle nose pliers and a wrench.

Repairing a Two Handled Leaky Faucet

The first thing you want to do in repairing a leaky faucet is to turn off the water supply lines at the valves located under the sink. Make sure you turn off both supply lines.

Note that if you have a two handle faucet and want to isolate what faucet handle is causing the leak turn off one supply line and check if the faucet leak stops. If it does not stop leaking turn off the other supply line and see if the faucet leak stops (it better). Knowing which faucet handle leaks will save you some work.

Next, turn the hot and cold faucet handles to the ON position to make sure that the supply lines are indeed off.

Remove the cap cover from the top of the faucet handle that is causing the leak. The small common screwdriver may come in handy here to remove the cap.

Next, using a Philips screwdriver remove the screw that holds the handle to the faucet valve stem.

Once the screw has been removed, use a wrench to unscrew the nut that secures the faucet valve stem to the faucet.

Now, using pliers, pull the valve stem out of the faucet. This may require a little tugging.
Once your have removed the valve stem, you should see a rubber washer sitting on top of a small spring in the valve stem housing located in the faucet. Pull this out with a pair of needle nose pliers. Usually it is this rubber washer/spring assemble that gets worn out and is the cause of the leak.

If there is no rubber washer assembly as part of the valve assembly the entire valve assembly will have to be replaced.

Take the washer/spring assembly, along with the valve stem to the hardware store and find a replacement for either the washer/spring assembly, or the entire valve assembly if there was no washer/spring assembly in the faucet.

To re-assemble the faucet, simply place the rubber washer on top of the narrow end of the spring and using your screwdriver as a guide slide it into place into the valve stem housing area. The wide end of the spring should rest at the base of the valve assembly housing.

Next install the valve stem (use the new valve stem if a washer/spring assembly was not used in the original valve assembly) in the valve stem housing and secure with the nut you had earlier removed.

Now slide the faucet handle back on top of the valve stem and secure it with the screw.

Push the plastic or metal cap back into place on top of the faucet handle.

Finally turn the supply lines back on and check to see that the faucet leak has been repaired.

Repairing a Single Handle Mixing Leaky Faucet

The steps for repairing a leaky single handled mixing faucet are very similar to what were explained above, however the culprit is usually a worn out O-ring.

Using similar steps mention above, after turning off the water remove the handle assembly. Typically there is a small screw located in the back of the faucet handle or underneath a plastic or metal cover.

Next remove the nut that holds the valve assembly to the faucet-housing unit.

Take the valve assembly to the hardware store and find either an entire valve assembly or the O-rings that are associated with the particular faucet manufacturer and model.

Install the new valve assembly into the faucet house, or replace the O-rings on the existing faucet valve assembly prior to reinstalling it.

Secure the valve assembly with the nut and reinstall the handle.

Turn the supply lines back on and test to see if you have successfully repaired the leaky faucet. With a little luck your leaky faucet is a thing of the past.

Repairing Curling Vinyl or Linoleum Flooring

By Mark J. Donovan

Repairing curling vinyl flooring or linoleum flooring is something a homeowner can do with a few basic tools and some vinyl flooring adhesive.

If your vinyl flooring or linoleum flooring is still in good shape, however it is curling along the edges or seams here are a few techniques you can do to repair it.

Repairing Curling Vinyl Flooring and Linoleum Flooring along Wall Edges

If your Vinyl or Linoleum flooring is curling along the edges of your walls, you have two repair alternatives.

First, the easiest and best solution is to simply install baseboard moulding around the perimeter of the room. The baseboard moulding rests over the vinyl flooring and holds it down flush with the floor. If the vinyl or linoleum flooring was installed after the baseboard moulding was installed, you can alternatively use a narrow piece of quarter-round trim moulding that rests on the vinyl floor and up against the main baseboard moulding. The quarter-round can be secured with 4 penny finished nails to the main baseboard moulding.

The second repair alternative is to gently heat the curled up vinyl or linoleum flooring, using a hair dryer, and apply some flooring adhesive on the backside of the flooring material. Use a putty knife to apply the flooring adhesive. Caution: Make sure you do not overheat the curled vinyl flooring as it could blister and discolor the surface.

After applying the flooring adhesive use a roller (e.g. a pizza roller type device) to press and work the vinyl flooring flat. After pressing it flat, wipe away the flooring surface and lay a 2”x4” board on top of it. Rest on top of the 2”x4” some additional weight to hold the vinyl flooring down while the adhesive sets up.

Repairing Curling Vinyl Flooring and Linoleum Flooring along Bath or Shower Edges

To repair curling vinyl flooring or linoleum flooring around your bathtub or shower unit, apply the second method described above. Gently heat the curled up vinyl or linoleum flooring, using a hair dryer, and apply some flooring adhesive to the backside of the flooring material. Use a putty knife to apply the flooring adhesive. Caution: Make sure you do not overheat the curled vinyl flooring as it could blister and discolor the surface.

After applying the flooring adhesive use a roller (e.g. a pizza roller type device) to press and work the vinyl flooring flat. After pressing it flat, wipe away the flooring surface and lay a 2”x4” board on top of it. Apply some additional weight on top of the 2”x4” to hold the vinyl flooring down while the adhesive sets up. Finally, apply a bead of silicone caulk over the seam and against the tub/shower enclosure to ensure water does not work its way underneath the vinyl/linoleum flooring.

Another alternative for repairing curling vinyl flooring around a bathtub or shower unit is to simply apply a metal threshold around the edge of the bathtub or shower enclosure. Secure the metal threshold with screws; however first apply a bead of silicone caulk underneath it to ensure no water seepage. Again, you may want to slightly warm the vinyl flooring with a hair dryer gun to flatten out the flooring while you install the threshold.

Repairing Curling Vinyl Flooring and Linoleum Flooring along Seams

To repair curling vinyl flooring near seams, gently heat the curled up vinyl or linoleum flooring, using a hair dryer, and apply some flooring adhesive on the backside of the flooring material. Use a putty knife to apply the flooring adhesive. Again caution, make sure you do not overheat the curled vinyl flooring as it could blister and discolor the surface.

After applying the flooring adhesive use a roller (e.g. a pizza roller type device) to press and work the vinyl flooring flat. Push the roller on a 45o angle towards the seam, and on both sides of the seams to compress and blend the seam together. If done correctly the seam should almost vanish.

After pressing the seam flat with the roller, wipe the vinyl flooring surface and lay a 2”x4” board on each side of the seam. Apply additional weight on top of the 2”x4”s to hold the vinyl flooring down while the adhesive sets up.

Removing Wallpaper Borders

By Mark J. Donovan

Removing Wallpaper borders is simple in theory but frequently more difficult in practice. Described below are a few techniques on removing wallpaper borders. Depending on the type of wallpaper border you are removing you may need to implement one or more of the techniques to successfully remove your wallpaper border.

The first step in removing wallpaper border is to first remove all wall hangings from the walls and furniture from the room. Removing wallpaper borders can be a messy job.

Remove Wallpaper Border using Wallpaper Scraper

If the wallpaper border was applied over wallpaper you may be lucky as typically the wallpaper border peels off easily in this situation.

Using a wallpaper scraper, or a putty knife, attempt to lift a corner of the wallpaper border from the wall. Newer wallpaper borders are frequently designed to peel off.

If you have success lifting a corner with the putty knife, use your hands and gently try to remove the wallpaper border section from the wall by simply peeling it away from it.

If the wallpaper border was not applied over wallpaper, or if you are unable to lift a corner of the wallpaper border, or if the backing remains on the wall, apply water or a liquid wallpaper removal solution to the border. Apply the water or liquid wallpaper removal solution liberally with a sponge, spray bottle, or paint roller on the wallpaper and to the point where the wall is saturated.

Note if the wallpaper border has a plastic or vinyl laminate over it you may need to first lightly scrape/scratch it to enable the water or removal solution to penetrate into the backing and glue layers.

The wallpaper border will absorb the water/liquid and the glue will begin to reactivate and loosen up. Once this has occurred again use a wallpaper scraper or putty knife, as well as your hands, and begin removing the wallpaper border.

Note that removing a wallpaper border is messy and dusty. In addition wallpaper removal solutions can have fumes that may irritate your sinuses and lungs. Make sure you work in a well-ventilated area and wear proper clothing, including gloves. Also make sure you wear safety goggles when removing wallpaper borders.

Wallpaper Steamer

Another alternative for the removal of a wallpaper border is to rent a wallpaper steamer. A wallpaper steamer similarly applies water to the wallpaper border however it is extremely hot water. The hot steam helps to reactivate and loosen the glue. After steam heating an area of wallpaper border use your hands and a wallpaper scraper to remove the wallpaper border from the walls. Note that wallpaper steamers are messy and a little dangerous so definitely try the above-mentioned alternatives prior to resorting to the wallpaper steamer.

Preparing Walls for new Wallpaper Border or Paint

After you have removed the entire wallpaper border, wipe the walls down with a warm damp sponge to remove any glue from the wall. Make sure you frequently rinse out the sponge to remove as much of the wallpaper glue as possible.

Once the wall has dried lightly sandpaper the walls to remove any residual glue.

If you plan to replace the wallpaper border you should be at a point where you can now install it. If, however, you plan on painting the walls you should first apply one coat of primer and then lightly sand the primer.

How to Remove Wallpaper

By Mark J. Donovan

So your wallpaper is looking a little worn and outdated and you’re thinking about removing it or replacing it with paint or new wallpaper. Learning about the various methods of how to remove wallpaper is the easy part. Actually removing the wallpaper from a wall can sometimes be a challenge.

The first step in removing wallpaper is to first remove all wall hangings from the walls and furniture from the room. Wallpaper removal can be a messy job.

Remove Wallpaper

Next using a wallpaper scraper or a putty knife attempt to lift a corner of the wallpaper from the wall. New wallpapers are frequently designed to peel off.

If you have success lifting a corner with the putty knife, use your hands and gently try to remove the wallpaper section from the wall by simply peeling it away from it.

If you are unable to lift a corner or unable to peel the wallpaper away from the wall, or if the backing remains on the wall, apply water or a liquid wallpaper removal solution you can obtain from your local wallpaper store. Apply the water or liquid wallpaper removal solution liberally with a sponge, spray bottle, or paint roller on the wallpaper and to the point where the wall is saturated.

Note that if the wallpaper has a plastic or vinyl laminate over it you may need to first lightly scrape/scratch it to enable the water or removal solution to penetrate into the backing and glue layers.

Note that wallpaper work is messy and dusty. In addition wallpaper removal solutions can have fumes that may irritate your sinuses and lungs. Make sure you work in a well-ventilated area and wear proper clothing, including gloves. Also make sure you wear safety goggles when removing wallpaper.

The wallpaper will absorb the water/liquid and the glue will begin to loosen up. Once this has occurred again use a wallpaper scraper or putty knife, as well as your hands, and begin removing the wallpaper.

Wallpaper Steamer

Another alternative for the removal of wallpaper is to rent a wallpaper steamer. A wallpaper steamer similarly applies water to the wallpaper, however it is extremely hot water. After steam heating an area of wallpaper use your hands and wallpaper scraper to remove the wallpaper from the walls. Note that wallpaper steamers are messy and a little dangerous so definitely try the above-mentioned alternatives prior to resorting to the wallpaper steamer.

Preparing Walls for new Wallpaper or Paint

After you have removed all of the wallpaper, wipe the walls down with a warm damp sponge to remove any glue from the wall. Make sure you frequently rinse out the sponge to remove as much of the wallpaper glue as possible.

Once the wall has dried lightly sandpaper the walls to remove any residual glue.

If you plan to replace the wallpaper you should be at a point where you can now install it. If, however, you plan on painting the walls you should first apply one coat of primer and then lightly sand the primer.

How to Remove a Broken Light Bulb

By Mark J. Donovan

To remove a broken light bulb, think safety first.

To remove a broken light bulb, first turn off the power to it. If the broken light bulb is in a lamp simply unplug the lamp. If the broken light bulb is in a ceiling or wall light fixture then turn power off at the Electrical Panel and toggle the light switch to make sure the light is indeed off.

Next put on a pair of protective leather gloves and safety glasses. You may also want to lay down a tarp to catch any broken glass, if you are removing a broken light bulb from a ceiling or wall light fixture.

Using a pair of needle nose pliers grip the broken light bulb base and attempt to rotate it counter-clockwise. You may have to slightly bend in the broken light bulb base using the needle nose pliers. Be careful not to break the light fixture when doing so.

If there is resistance in turning the broken light bulb base counter-clockwise, slightly attempt to rotate it clockwise and then back again counter-clockwise. This “wiggling” action should enable the broken light bulb to be unscrewed and removed from the light socket without damaging the socket.

After you remove the broken light bulb sweep or vacuum up any broken glass and replace the bulb with a new one. Plug the light back in and/or turn power back on at the electrical panel and test to see if the new light bulb works.

To prevent the removal of future broken light bulbs never over tighten them when screwing them into the light socket. Screw them in just to the point where you feel a slight resistance and test to see if the light works without flickering. If it does, leave it alone. If it flickers, then tighten the light bulb just until the point the flickering stops.

Replacing a Bathroom Exhaust Fan’s Motor

By Mark J. Donovan

Replacing a bathroom exhaust fan frequently does not require the replacement of the entire unit. Typically it is the bathroom exhaust fan’s motor that only needs to be replaced. Many bathroom exhaust fan manufacturers offer replacement fan motors that a homeowner can install within an hour or two. Replacing a bathroom exhaust fan motor is much simpler and less invasive than replacing an entire bathroom exhaust fan.

It is important to note that a bathroom exhaust fan is critical for preventing the formation of mold and mildew in your bathroom, and thus it is imperative to replace a failed bathroom exhaust fan as soon as it has failed. Shower steam that is not drawn out of the bathroom inevitably leads to the formation of mold spores. An exhaust fan works by drawing the shower steam out of the bathroom and venting it to the outside, thus preventing the formation of the mold spores.

To replace a bathroom exhaust fan motor start by inspecting the fan and writing down the model number, but first make sure you have turned off power to the fan at the electrical circuit breaker panel. Test to make sure the fan is actually off by flipping the fan switch on/off in the bathroom. If the fan does not turn on after flipping the fan switch on/off then proceed.

To obtain the fan’s model number, first remove the grill and inspect the fan housing box. The grille is usually connected via a couple of springs, screws or plastic tabs.

Once the grille has been removed, find the model number. The model number should be located somewhere in the fan housing box. You may need to wipe away some dust to see it.

Once you have recorded the model number unplug the fan motor and remove it along with the supporting plate. Usually the fan plate is connected via tabs or screws.

After removing the fan motor and plate assembly from the bathroom exhaust fan housing unit, next remove the blower fan off of the motor’s shaft. The blower fan is usually attached with a screw or is simply pressed fit over the motor’s shaft. Removing the blower fan can sometimes be a challenge so be prepared for a little elbow work. If you damage the blower fan, don’t worry as replacement ones are readily available at your home improvement store.

Once you have removed the blower fan from the motor shaft, take the fan motor to a local home improvement center and find an equivalent replacement to it.

Once you have located a replacement bathroom exhaust fan motor simply work backwards to install it.

First install the blower fan onto the new motor’s shaft.

Next connect the motor assembly back into the fan plate.

Install the fan plate back into the bathroom exhaust fan housing unit, making sure you plug it in.

Reinstall the bathroom exhaust fan grille.

Turn power back on to the fan at the electrical circuit breaker panel box.

Test the fan to ensure it operates correctly by flipping the fan switch on in the bathroom.

Sizing a Rough Opening for a Prehung Door

By Mark J. Donovan

When installing a prehung door into a wall it is important that the rough opening for the door be sized correctly. If the rough opening is too small the prehung door will not fit into it, and if it is too large there will be wide gaps that will make it difficult for the door to be hung properly.

Typically the rough opening for a prehung door should be sized 2 inches wider and 2 inches higher than the door itself. For example a two-foot, eight inch (32”) by six feet, eight inch high (80”) prehung door, would require a rough opening width of 34 inches and a height of 82 inches.

This sized rough opening will allow for the doorframe casing to be installed with about 1 inch of play on both sides, and 1 inch on both top and bottom. This spare space will allow the prehung doorframe to be leveled and plumbed so that the door swings freely.

Note that when installing the prehung doorframe shims and blocking should be used at both the hinge and door lock locations. The shims and blocking should be wedged in between the prehung doorframe and the wall studs that form the rough opening. When securing the prehung doorframe to the studs, nails should penetrate through the shims/blocking material. This will help to prevent flexing of the prehung doorframe when it is opened and closed.

Note that these guidelines are typical framing standards that are employed in the home construction business. You should always check with the manufacturer or product specifications to confirm the rough opening requirements for your particular prehung door.

For information on Installing Interior Door Trim, see the Installing Interior Door Trim Ebook from HomeAdditionPlus.com. The Installing Interior Door Trim Ebook provides easy to understand, detailed step-by-step instructions, on how to install interior door trim around an interior or exterior door. Pictures are included for every key step in the process!

Sizing a Rough Opening for a Window

By Mark J. Donovan

When installing a window into a wall it is important that the rough opening for the window be sized correctly. If the rough opening is too small the window will not fit into it, and if it is too large there will be wide gaps that will make it difficult for the window to be hung properly. This can also lead to poor insulation and air infiltration causing a drafty room.

Rough Opening for Wood Windows

Typically the rough opening for a wood window should be sized 2 inches wider and 2 inches higher than the window itself. For example, a 30 inch wide, by 36 inch high wood window, would require a rough opening width of 32 inches and a height of 38 inches.

This sized rough opening will allow for the window frame to be installed with about 1 inch of play on both sides, and 1 inch on both top and bottom. This spare space will allow for the window frame to be leveled and plumbed so that it operates correctly.

Note that when installing the window frame shims and blocking should be used to plumb and level the window frame. The shims and blocking should be wedged in between the window frame and the wall studs that form the rough opening. This will help to prevent flexing of the window and ensure that it continues to operate correctly over time.

Rough Opening for Aluminum and Vinyl Windows

For Aluminum and Vinyl windows, manufacturers typically undersize the windows and thus require the rough opening to be the same width and height as the advertised window. For example, in the 30”x36” window mentioned earlier, the actual rough opening would be 30” x 36”.

Note that these guidelines are typical framing standards that are employed in the home construction business. You should always check with the manufacturer or product specifications to confirm the rough opening requirements for your particular window.

For more information on installing a new window, see the Installing a New Window Ebook from HomeAdditionPlus.com. The Installing a New Window Ebook provides easy to understand, step-by-step instructions, on how to remove an old window and install a new one. Pictures are included for every key step in the process

Sizing a Rough Opening for a Bifold Door

By Mark J. Donovan

When installing a Bifold door into a wall it is important that the rough opening for the Bifold door be sized correctly. If the rough opening is not sized correctly the Bifold door will either not fit if it is too small, or have wide gaps if it is too large.

Sizing a Bifold Door Rough Opening with a Door Jamb Opening

Typically the rough opening should be sized 2 inches wider and 2 inches higher than the door itself. For example a four-foot wide (48”) by six feet, eight inches high (80”) Bifold set of doors, would require a rough opening width of 50 inches and a height of 82 inches.

This sized rough opening will allow for either a doorjamb kit to be installed or for ¾” thick select lumber to be used to create the finished doorjamb.

Note that most bifold door assemblies do not come with a doorjamb kit so using ¾” thick select lumber to create the finished doorjamb is fairly common. The bifold door mechanical bracket assemblies actually screw into this finished doorjamb so it is important that the doorjamb be installed plumb and level.

To complete the interior trim work associated with the doorjamb, when using ¾” select lumber, case moulding is wrapped around the perimeter of it. For best results, mitered cuts are employed.

Sizing a Bifold Door Rough Opening for a Sheetrocked Wrapped Opening

If the Bifold door is to be installed into a sheetrocked wrapped opening the rough opening width should be sized to the actual width of the Bifold doors (48” in the case of this example). The rough opening height should be the height of the door plus 3/4" (80 ¾” in the case of this example).

Note that these guidelines are typical framing standards that are employed in the home construction business. You should always check with the manufacturer or product specifications to confirm the rough opening requirements for your particular bifold doors.

For information on Installing Interior Door Trim, see the Installing Interior Door Trim Ebook from HomeAdditionPlus.com. The Installing Interior Door Trim Ebook provides easy to understand, detailed step-by-step instructions, on how to install interior door trim around an interior or exterior door. Pictures are included for every key step in the process!

Can a Second Story be Added onto a Ranch Home?

By Mark J. Donovan

Question: Can a second story be added onto a ranch home and if so how expensive is it to do?

Answer: Building a second story onto a ranch home is feasible and many homeowners have done so. However, adding a second story onto a single story home is a large undertaking and typically involves extensive planning and the use of an architect.

One of the major items to consider is the disruption of your lifestyle and family. Frequently homeowners undertaking a second story addition need to temporarily vacate the home while construction occurs. Consequently, temporary living costs need to be factored into the budget of building a second story addition.

Regarding the actual construction of the second story addition, there are a number of issues that need to be addressed during the planning phase. First, the first floor construction needs to be evaluated to determine if it can support the weight of a second story. Second, the mechanical infrastructure (heating, plumbing, electrical) has to be evaluated to determine how it will be upgraded and modified to support the second story addition. Frequently larger furnaces and Electrical panels need to be installed. These upgrades can contribute significantly to the cost of the project. Finally, there is the demolition aspect of the project that needs to be thoroughly planned. In adding a second story addition it is important to remove the roof, without disturbing the structural integrity and contents of the lower levels. This can be tricky and requires significant planning and care. Otherwise, your second story addition project will expand to include a restoration project of the first floor.

The cost of building a second story addition onto a ranch home is relatively expensive from a cost per square foot basis. Careful demolition, and temporary living expenses add significantly to the project budget. However the alternative to selling the home and buying a new one is even more expensive in most cases. A homeowner can expect to pay a 30-50% premium over standard construction costs per square foot, for adding a second story addition.

Whole House Fans – An Air Conditioning Alternative

By Mark J. Donovan

Whole house fans are an excellent alternative to air condition for cooling your home, as they typically require only 25% of the power of an equivalent air conditioning system. In addition, whole house fans are lower cost and easier to install then central air conditioning systems. However, whole house fans are more suited for areas where summer day temperatures do not regularly exceed 80o degrees fahrenheit.

Whole house fans are ideal for small homes, or homes that do not have air ducts already installed in them. For example a small home heated off of forced hot water would be a great candidate for a whole house fan system.

Whole house fans are large fans that usually reside in the attic, and are positioned over a main hallway.

A whole house fan operates by drawing in large volumes of cool air from the outside, via the home’s windows, and pulling the hot air from the living space out via attic vents.

Due to their size, and the high speed that homeowners typically run them at, whole house fans have been known to be notoriously loud.

Whole house fan technology has improved over the years thus eliminating much of the noise associated with older models. All metal, welded frames fans work best as they have fewer parts to rub together and create noise. Also if properly installed, motor vibration noise can be prevented by installing the whole house fan on rubber mountings.

In addition, there are many things a homeowner can do to reduce or prevent the fan noise. First, it is usually best to install the largest whole house fan possible. A smaller fan has to turn much faster to draw the same amount of air as a large one - the higher the revolutions per minute (RPMs) the louder the fan noise. In addition, smaller fans with higher RPMs typically have higher failure rates. Second, the higher number of fan blades the quieter the fan. So when looking for a whole house fan it is best to select the largest model possible with the highest number of fan blades.

Sufficient attic venting is required when installing a whole house fan. Typically 1 square foot of net free venting is required for every 700-800 cubic feet per minute (CPM) of air flow. Frequently, there is insufficient attic venting for whole house attic fans, so it is critical that additional attic venting be installed when installing a whole house fan. Inadequate attic venting can also cause noise and reduce the efficiency of the whole house fan.

Typically homeowners have whole house fans on timers that turn the fan on-and-off in the early evening. This also helps to mitigate the impact of any noise associated with the fans. Whole house fans are not usually installed with thermostats, as whole house fans require some homeowner prep. Windows must be opened prior to the fan turning on for cooling to actually occur and to prevent the possibility of pilot lights from going out.

It is recommended that a whole house fan be installed by professionals as they can ensure that the appropriate sized fan is installed properly and that adequate attic ventilation can be created.
Typically a whole house fan can be installed with 1-2 days.

Framing a Window Opening

By Mark J. Donovan

A How to Guide for Framing a Window Opening

Installing a new window in your home typically requires the need for demolition and framing. Described below is the process for framing a window opening.

Site Preparation

Prior to any demolition make sure you have confirmed that all electricity and plumbing have been turned off that may be associated with the area you plan on installing the new window.

Also make sure you have cleared the area of furniture and have laid a tarp down on the floor.

If the wall is a weight-bearing wall, make sure you brace up the ceiling first before removing any of the existing studs. You can usually do this with a few 2x4s fashioned into a T configuration.

Trace out the approximate window frame location on the wall using a pencil or marker.

Site Demolition

Next, using a carpenters knife score the sheetrock. Make sure you penetrate all the way through the sheetrock. Note that you will have to remove a section of sheet rock that goes floor to ceiling.

Now remove the sheetrock with a hammer and claw. It is best to immediately dispose of the sheetrock to keep the jobsite clean.

Remove Required Studs and Sole Plate Section

Next, mark on the top plate and bottom sole plate the rough opening locations for the window. Note, that the rough window opening should be about 2 inches wider and taller than the window itself. Also allow for an additional 3 inches to account for the width of 2 studs on each side of the window (King Stud and Jack/Trimmer Studs).

Now remove the stud(s) that lie within the marked rough window opening.

Frame the Rough Window Opening

Next install the King studs. A King stud should sit on each side of the rough window opening and should connect the top plate and sole plate together. Toe nail them into position, and use a level to make sure they are plumb.

Warning: Make sure that when you install the King studs you have also accounted for the width of the Jack/Trimmer studs. It is the spacing between the trimmer studs that should be approximately 2 inches wider than the actual window.

Next install Jack studs up against the two King studs. The Jack studs should be placed to the inside of the window opening and should have a height that is equal to the height of the base of the window opening.

The Jack studs should be both toe nailed and nailed to the king jacks.

Now install a sill plate that will rest on top of the Jack studs. The new window will eventually sit on this sill plate. The sill plate is constructed using either a 2”x4” or 2”x6”, pending the exterior wall construction, and laid on its flat side on top of the Jack studs. Nail the sill plate to the Jack studs and King studs.

Next, install additional center Jack studs (as required) underneath the sill plate. The center Jack studs should be located on 16 inch centers between the edge Jack studs.

With the sill plate installed, it is now time to install trimmer studs that rest on top of the sill plate and sit flush up against the King studs. The trimmer studs should be of a length that is approximately 2 inches higher than then the actual height of the window. The trimmer studs should be nailed flush to the King studs.

Now install a Header that will rest on top of the Trimmer studs. The header should consist of two 2x6s, 2x8’s, etc. (pending local code requirements) sections married/nailed together and laid on their edge on top of the trimmer studs. Note that spacers may be required between the Header boards, pending the width of the framing used on the exterior wall (e.g. if the walls were framed with 2”x6”s then spacers will be required between the two header boards).

The Header should be nailed into the King studs.

Finally add cripple studs over the header. Cripple studs should be installed on both the left and right side of the header and be nailed into the King studs. They should also be toe nailed into the top plate and header.

Additional Cripple studs should also be installed (on 16” centers) between the edge Cripple studs.

The center Cripple studs should be toe nailed into the Header and the top plate.

If framed correctly the rough window opening should be complete and about 2 inches taller and wider than the window itself.

You have now completed the framing of rough window frame and are ready for installing the window.

Framing a Rough Door Opening

By Mark J. Donovan

A How to Guide for Framing a Rough Door Opening

Installing a new door in your home can frequently require the need for framing. Described below is the process for framing a rough door opening.

Site Preparation

Prior to any demolition make sure you have confirmed that all electricity has been turned off.

Also make sure you have cleared the area of furniture and have laid a tarp down on the floor.

If the wall is a weight-bearing wall, make sure you brace up the ceiling first before removing any of the existing studs. You can usually do this with a few 2x4s.

Trace out the approximate doorframe location on the wall.

Site Demolition

Next, using a carpenters knife score the sheetrock. Make sure you penetrate all the way through the sheetrock.

Now remove the sheetrock with a hammer and claw. It is best to immediately dispose of the sheetrock to keep the jobsite clean.

Remove Required Studs and Sole Plate Section

Next, mark on the top plate and bottom sole plate the rough opening locations for the door. Note, that the rough door opening should be about 2-3 inches wider and taller than the door itself. Also allow for an additional 3 inches to account for the width of 2 studs on each side of the door (King Stud and Jack Stud).

Now remove the stud(s) that lie within the marked rough opening. You will also need to remove a section of the bottom sole plate.

Frame the Rough Door Opening

Next install the King Studs. A King stud should sit on each side of the rough door opening and should connect the top and sole plates together. Toe nail them into position and use a level to make sure they are plumb.

Next install Jack studs up against the two King studs. The Jack studs should be placed to the inside of the door opening and should have a height that is equal to the height of the door plus 2-3 inches.

The jack studs should be both toe nailed and nailed to the king jacks.

Now install a header that will rest on top of the Jack Studs. The header should consist of two 2x4 sections married/nailed together and laid flat on top of the Jack studs.

Nail the header to the jack and king studs to form the rough doorframe opening.

Finally add cripple studs over the header. One cripple stud should sit centered between the king studs and on top of the header. This cripple stud should be centered in the rough doorframe opening and should be toe nailed into the header and top plate. Also add cripple studs above the header and over each Jack stud.

If framed correctly the rough opening should be complete and about 2-3 inches taller and wider than the door itself.

You have now completed the framing of rough doorframe and are ready for installing the door.

Attic Fans Save Big on Air Conditioning Bills

By Mark J. Donovan

Attic fans are an excellent supplement to home air conditioners and are ideal in areas where temperatures regularly exceed 80 degrees fahrenheit. Attic fans by themselves can reduce the temperature in your upstairs by 10 degrees in the summer. Attic fans, when used in conjunction with air conditioners can reduce your cooling costs by as much as 25-30%.

Attic fans are one of the best alternatives for quickly lowering your homes temperature. An attic in the summer can reach 80 - 150 degrees fahrenheit. This super heated air can back up in the upstairs of your home. An attic fan works by drawing this super heated hot air out of the attic to the outside, thus creating less work for the air conditioning system.

Attic fans can also extend the life of your roof shingles by eliminating the excessive heat they’re exposed to via super heated air in the attic.

Attic fans are usually mounted on the roofs of homes and are controlled by a thermostat. They automatically turn on and off based on pre-set temperature settings in the attic.

Traditionally installing an attic fan requires framing, roofing and wiring, however there are now solar powered attic fans on the market that eliminate the wiring aspect of the job. The solar panel sits literally on top of the attic fan cover and produces enough electricity to power the attic fan. Like traditional attic fans, the solar attic fans are controlled via a thermostat so no human control is required.
Attic fans are normally mounted on either the back of the home’s roof, a couple of feet from the roof peak, or on the gable end of a home.

For longevity, it is best to purchase all metal fans with screens to prevent animals and birds from finding their way into your attic. In addition, make sure the attic fan comes with a firestat sensor that automatically shuts the attic fan off in the event of very high temperatures (e.g. in the case of a home fire).

Attic fans are a great way to lower your cooling bills, so this year think ahead before the next summer heat wave hits.

Attic insulation Tips that can save you Big Money

By Mark J. Donovan

All of us know that hot air rises, however many homeowners neglect to inspect their attic for proper attic insulation. Improperly installed or inadequate attic insulation is a leading cause of heat loss in the home, and consequently attic insulation should be checked prior to each winter.

The homeowner should first check to see if the attic insulation is adequate. Increasing your home’s attic insulation from three to twelve inches can save you up to 20% in your heating bills. A properly insulated attic should have at least 9.5 to 12 inches, R-30/R-38 respectively, of attic insulation in it.

Any attic insulation that is lifted should be replaced such that it sits properly up against the sheetrocked ceiling surface.

If you are planning to add rolled insulation over your existing insulation, make sure you lay it perpendicular to the attic insulation that is already installed. This will help to create a tighter seal. Make sure, however, you do not cover lighting fixtures, soffit vents and fan exhaust vents.

On shallow roof pitches use Attic Rafter vents to insure the rolled insulation does not block the soffit vents.

If you are replacing attic insulation make sure you install a vapor barrier first (e.g. 4-6 mil thick polyethylene plastic). The vapor barrier should go under the first layer of attic insulation and towards the warm side. If a vapor barrier is not used condensation will form and create mold and mildew damage in the attic and ceilings.

If you plan to use faced insulation, then the polyethylene sheets are not required. Just lay the faced insulation paper side down so that it is in contact with the sheetrocked ceiling material.

Use fire retardant foam insulation and/or caulk around bathroom ceiling fans to ensure a tight seal. Apply the caulk from below to create a good seal around the seams.

Note: Insulation should be kept 3-4 inches away from recessed lighting fixtures to prevent fire, unless the lighting fixture is marked “I.C.”, Insulated Ceiling.

If you have an attic door, apply weather stripping around the seams and insulate the backside of the door.

With these few basic attic insulation tips you can significantly reduce your winter heating bills.

French Drain Installation and Home Foundations

By Mark J. Donovan

French drain installation is one of the easiest things you can do to prevent water from entering your home’s basement or crawl space. However, frequently contractors and homeowners neglect to install them when building homes or additions on to homes. The cost of installing a French drain is minimal, as it only requires some perforated PVC piping and ¾ inch crushed stone. French Drains should always be installed around foundations.

A French drain takes advantage of gravity and aids in helping ground water seek lower levels away from your home’s foundation.

A French drain is basically a network of crushed stone and plastic piping that encircles the home or home addition and channels water away from the foundation.

After the home’s footing and foundation walls have been constructed and sealed, several inches of crushed stone should be poured around the outside of the foundation wall near the base of the footings. The crushed stone should be poured such that a natural swale is created towards the lowest expected finished grade around the foundation and abutting yard. This will help aid in the direction of water away from the home.

A small trench should then be extended out into the yard, from this lowest finished grade location at the foundation so that water will continue to drain away from the foundation. The trench should be approximately 1 foot wide and should extend deep enough to enable water to continue to drain from the foundation. The trench should extended outward from this point in the foundation to a distance that the drain reaches the natural ground surface. This will enable the ground water around the foundation water to be effectively channeled out to the surface some extended distance away from the home.

Perforated 4 inch PVC, or similar plastic pipe, should then be placed and connected together on top of the crushed stone with the holes facing downward. It is important for the holes to face downward as water tables build from the bottoms up.

The PVC pipes should be connected such that they funnel water towards the trench and then connect, if necessary with a T-connector, to a straight section of PVC pipe that extends the length of the trench.

With the piping installed, the pipe should be covered with an additional 1-2 feet of crushed stone, less as you work your way out towards the end of the trench.

The foundation can then be backfilled, and 2-4 inches of topsoil can then be installed on top for growing grass.

French drain installations are also common for channeling water from other locations in a yard. Typically they are used in applications where water coming off of a hill would normally drain into a back or side yard. By installing a French drain, the water can be “short circuited” from entering the back or side yard.

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